Long Distance Casting- A Blessing or a Curse?

Posted by Keith on March 8, 2010 under Help and Tips, Sea Fishing | Be the First to Comment

by Derek Townsend

Obsolete Ideology!

Historically, there has always been a culture of powerful rods, high test strength lines and heavy density leads associated with sea fishing from the shore in south east Wales.  The combination of the extensive tidal range, strong currents and the shallow, shelving nature of the sea bed in the Bristol Channel, was responsible for the mindset that sponsored the use of extreme fishing tackle as the only way, if not to tame these elements, then certainly to make fishing a practical proposition along the south east coast of Wales.

This was the reality before the revolutionary advances in rods, reels and line technology circa the 70’s and onwards, presented the sea angler with both the tools and the opportunity to escape from the restraints of this obsolete ideology.

Long Distance Casting – A Blessing or a Curse?

The current “long distance casting” epidemic has done little to curb this phenomenon or stimulate an awareness that there are alternative approaches waiting for those who wish to add real enjoyment to their sea fishing.  It is a myth that by learning a more effective casting technique and using it at EVERY visit to the shoreline, this alone will automatically guarantee improved catches in both quality and quantity of all species.

In fact, this practice can be counter productive, often putting the bait into barren ground beyond the habitat of some of the desired prey species, such as bass for example, or even rays, that at some marks from the shore, can lay in wait in the trench, within easy casting range at low water of a big spring tide.  Winter cod fishing was an example where having the ability to cast a bait a considerable distance, could pay off handsomely at SOME locations (like Dungeness), but alternatively, there were local marks where good sport with codling of 6, 7, 8-ish lbs, or Thornback/ Small Eyed Rays circa 8 lbs., could be enjoyed using 11 lb. breaking  strain (monofilament) line, 2 ounce (no grip) leads and my Bones Bass Rod Mk. 3, close inshore in rough ground, a la bass fishing.

When the novelty begins to wear off, realisation will dawn that LDC is not the all encompassing panacea for lack of success.  Ultimately, nothing will replace knowledge, skill and an intelligent, rational use of ALL the techniques available to the sea angler, WHEN and WHERE experience demands.

The fish in the above photographs were all hooked inside a casting distance of circa 30 yards (90 feet) maximum, in rough ground, as were approximately 70% of all the prey fish (mainly bass but rays, cod and the occasional smoothound) caught by my sons and I  in any one year.  Accurate, as against distance, casting plus the correct bait was the key.

Having said all that, I would not hesitate to encourage every sea angler who takes a rod to water, to learn one of the modern casting techniques, such as the Pendulum style, from a competent, experienced and proficient practitioner.

The Good, the Bad and the downright Dangerous.

One thing for sure, Long Distance Casting in south east Wales is here to stay and its popularity is readily visible along the coast, be it of varying degrees of competence, ranging from the good, the bad and the downright dangerous.  There is little doubt that the distances being achieved, together with the aspirations to do better, are down to the improved design of the blanks and the accelerated use of modern materials such as Carbon Fibre, rather than any revolutionary development of the basic technique which has its roots well into the past.

It is debatable whether the skilled practitioners of today would have faired any better than their counterparts some 30 to 35 years ago, had it not been for these technological advances in blank/rod design and construction.  This discussion relates to the use of LDC as an important tool in the armoury of sea fishing, separate from Tournament Casting.

Acceptance of short comings and a desire to learn.

In the 21st Century, the opportunity to learn a modern casting style in this region either through formal, organized seminars, or via individual tuition, is widespread and any would be students are spoilt for choice.

This was not the case back in the 1970’s!  Aspirations then, using the standard beach casters (average length= 12 feet) of the day, were much less than would be acceptable today, with the achievement of 150 yards (137 metres) to 175 yards (160 metres), “lead only, 5 ounces, over grass”, being considered miraculous.  At that time, “blank/rod” technology was in its infancy and the average ability using the “up and over” style with the available materials (rod, reel and line) would result in a measured distance of 65 yards (59 metres) to a maximum of 85 yards (78 metres).

With initial instruction in the pendulum style, this distance could be improved, on average, to 100 yards (92 metres) up to 130 yards (119 metres), with the best students reaching 150 yards (137 metres) plus.   Translate these performances onto the beach plus the vagaries of bait, wind, and weather and the reality was that the lead would, probably, enter the sea at around (a) 55 yards (50 metres) to 75 yards (69 metres) before instruction and (b) after instruction, possibly 85 yards (78 metres) to 110 yards (101 metres). These statistics, compared with the current distances being achieved, illustrate just how much influence technology has had on the potential performances of ordinary sea anglers over a period of a 1/3rd of a century.

“How does your casting measure up?”

On a historical note, I am quoting an edited version of an article titled “How does your casting measure up?” which I wrote and had published in the February, 1977 issue of ANGLING magazine, (Byblos Productions Ltd.) to give the reader an authentic feel for the period, and to provide a yardstick against which later generations can measure the improvements in distance attributable to the advanced technology.

(All distances quoted are for the popular lead density of the time of 5 ounces and using standard, every day beach casters of the popular assembled length of circa 12 feet)

The arrival of each new cod season is inevitably accompanied by a plethora of articles in angling periodicals, all emphasising the importance of developing a style and a capability to cast lead and bait more than 100 yards (91 metres) as a starter to any measure of success that may be achieved with this species.  Of course, not all cod fishing involves the use of this ability, and indeed, the value of Long Distance Casting is not restricted to cod alone, although it was the initial source of inspiration to those early pioneers of the technique.

Despite the abundance of these articles expounding the virtues of this and that casting style, many sea anglers remain apathetic, although I suspect that in most breasts lurks a wistful desire to equal the ability of the Darkins, Darlings and others of this world.  I am convinced, through my own experiences, that many sea anglers will only be inspired by actually seeing what a proficient L.D. Caster can achieve with the everyday tools of sea angling, be it on the tournament field, on the beach during a fishing session when all the vagaries of wind, weather and terrain are in play, a situation with which the less accomplished angler can relate.

Assuming that it was possible to accurately quantify all the sea anglers who cast from the shore, I wonder what the outcome would be if it was possible to calculate the percentage ratio of the following criteria to mass?  How many anglers, using their standard “ beach casting” outfits, can cast a lead alone (a) over 200 yards (182 metres) (b) over 175 yards (160 metres) (c) over 150 yards (137 metres) (d) over 125 yards (114 metres) (e) over 100 yards (91 metres) and (f) over 75 yards (69 metres)?   Most of us express our casting distances in the light of our achievements with lead only, thereby ignoring the natural limitations imposed by paternoster rigs, bait etc, which is why the above question was posed.   The results of this theoretical survey would be pure speculation, although I suspect that the biggest percentage would be attributed to category (f), followed by a significantly reduced percentage for category (e), with the scale tapering off dramatically from category (d) through to (a).

Once again, recalling my own past experiences, it seemed natural at the time to draw the conclusion that, despite the absence of any reliable yardsticks against which to make a comparison, my achieved distances must be exceeding the hundred yard (91 metres) mark, and it wasn’t until the opportunity presented itself via a club organised casting tourney, that the truth was revealed.   At the time, I was getting nowhere near the hundred yard (91 metres) post…more like 80 yards (73 metres) plus, lead only.  By the way, I wasn’t the only one whose ego took a substantial knock that day!

Far from being unique, it would seem that this capacity to over assess distances is an angler’s prerogative, illustrating a deep-rooted complex which is associated with the inability to cast at least 100 yards (91 metres)…we all have to start somewhere!
Returning to the articles referred to earlier, if there is any criticism to be levelled at their content, then I feel that it must be directed at the emphasis placed on distances in excess of 150 yards (137 metres),lead only, the impression being that this is the norm.   Failure to reach this standard nurtures an inferiority complex amongst those who cannot achieve it, hence the “Hundred Yard Syndrome”.  I think it is reasonable to suggest that distances of at least 135 yards (123 metres), lead only over grass, will be achieved by those who have a natural ability, or have developed a fluent style through dedication or opportunity to practice for long hours…a luxury of the minority rather than the majority.

There is a need for some targets to which an aspiring novice caster can relate, but taking into consideration the wide spectrum of abilities and restricted time available for practice, I am sure the continual references to distances of 150, 160, 170 up to 200 yards, lead only, is the point where many lose interest who may have taken up the challenge if less awesome yardsticks punctuated these otherwise instructive articles.”

Just a reminder that this edited article was written and published in early 1977 and clearly demonstrates an apparent lack of enthusiasm for Long Distance casting in south east Wales, mainly due to the fact that accomplished L.D. Casters, “role models”, were thin on the ground in the region to the point of virtually being non existent.  The distances in the piece are a true reflection of what was being achieved by the sea angler of average ability using the standard beach casting equipment available at this period.

ANGLING magazine, L.D.C. “Teach Ins.”

In the early 1970’s, ANGLING magazine organised a series of “teach ins” on the east coast of England, which presented the opportunity to witness L.D.C. performed by accomplished practitioners, and offered a unique opportunity for individual instruction in a more advanced casting style.  Having benefited from one of the early “teach ins”, I was only too pleased to pass on the lessons learnt, and accepted invitations to demonstrate the rudiments of the pendulum style, impressing upon my hosts that I was not in the “super caster” league.

Casting Instruction and Demonstrations.

The average instruction session lasted about three hours, with initial casts using the old “up and over” style, ranging from 65 yards (59 metres) to 85 yards (78 meters), distances that reflected the physique and strength of each individual.

The end result, after a morning’s instruction, was a minimum improvement of, around, plus 35 yards (32 metres), with a fair proportion of the students consistently casting well over 150 yards (137 metres), lead only.

These distances may be small beer when compared to the achievements of today’s casters, but credit must be given to those who were prepared to face up to their limitations over a measured track, as the first step on the road to significant improvements.

Assessing distances cast over sea water by guesswork, or “pacing it out” over grass/ beach, has been proved beyond question, to have no credibility when put to the tape measure.

Derek demonstrates a cast over the measured court.

Preparing for Instruction and a Demonstration of the pendulum style of casting.

Buy the book ‘ Bass Fishing from the shore in South East Wales and more by Derek Townsend’

Hindged Maggot and Worm Madusa D-Rig

Posted by Keith on March 7, 2010 under Carp and Coarse Fishing, Help and Tips, Sea Fishing | Be the First to Comment

Well, it’s started to warm up a bit by day at last….albeit another bunch of cold nights has plagued us again this week.

Unfortunately this put the stoppers on a trip to one of my syndicate waters in Reading this week.

The lake being all bar totally frozen again.

With this snap of cold weather being with us I thought that I’d show you one of the rigs which has caught me an awful amount of big carp through the last few winters, when all but a few anglers have caught carp.

My chosen venue for winter always has to have a decent stock of carp to target. Tie this up to shallow’ish water and time on the bank and you have the recipe for good results when most waters have shut up shop.

The rig needs to be simple, invisible and of course, highly effective. The same needs to be said for the bait…..it needs to be highly visible, simple and of course again, attractive!

The baits of which I talk of some of you may laugh at…it is of course the humble maggot and our best friend the  garden worm. These little wrigglers are just what the doctor ordered for a run of fish this time of year.

These baits couldn’t be easier to use and more readily available….obviously the worm from your garden and the maggots from the shop.

I really like a mixture of colors of maggots, red and white minimum really. Tackle for this sort of fishing needs to be gauged to the size of fish you are hoping to catch and of course the venue itself.

The syndicate water i’m currently on in Devon has almost no underwater snags to worry about which means I can get away with very minimal tackle. This of course helps no end in making the terminal tackle invisible. This allows me to step my lines and hook lengths right down to 6lb.

Some of you may now be gasping at the thought of using 6lb line for big carp, but believe me that if you fish with a soft rod, tie good strong knots and play your fish sensibly then there is absolutely no reason why you too can’t catch big fish on light tackle too.

In my old match fishing days down the south of England, we thought nothing of going down to size 22 hooks and 1lb hook lengths for silvers and even catching odd small carp like this too. The reason for fining down the tackle is obvious in that it makes the whole set up less visible in the usually clear water we have around during the colder months of the year.

I’m not saying you should be casting split shot out for weights and size 22 hooks for double figure carp, but the use of 6lb fluorocarbon rig material and size 12 hooks will certainly get you a heck of a lot more bites than using 20lb material and size 4’s!

You need to start thinking about how the fish react during the colder months of the year.

Many professors of fish science etc will tell you that the species Cyprinus Carpio (Carp) will not feed at water temperatures below 4 deg C….

I wouldn’t say this is a particularly hard and fast rule due to the fact that this year alone I have caught more than 20 fish from water temperatures down to as low as 2.4 deg C.

Choosing the right fishery is obviously the key point here. It’s no good trying to target a water of 20 feet deep and only a few fish to boot. The main reason being that waters like this will take much longer to warm up as opposed to one of just a few feet deep.

So, we’ve talked a little about the choice of water and our bait etc. Now we need to have a way to present these excellent baits to the fish. There are of course many different ways in which to do this including the use of ‘maggot clips’ which are available

from many of the major tackle brands. I like these clips for their ease of use and simplicity, but I have a preferred method which gives as far as I am concerned a far better presentation.

You will no doubt have come across this little gem of a method with in the press at some time or another in the past. It amazes me though how few people use it and just how many snub the idea of using maggots and worms for carp as ridiculous!

My principal rig consists of using fluorocarbon in minimal breaking strains as I said earlier in the text.

If I can get away with going down to 6lb breaking strain then the rig will be almost totally invisible withing the depths of the water….even in almost crystal clear water!

I like to team this up to a small hook of 10 or 12.

To start this rig we need to first cut off a section of fluorocarbon around 10 inches in length.

Now taking our hook, push the line from the point side through to the back of the shank. This is really important because if it goes through the wrong way your rig won’t work properly.

Now start to twist the line around the shank neatly, around 6-8 turns will suffice. Pinch the twist and hook between your fingers and with the other hand push the line back through the hook eye in the reverse manner to previously.

Pull this up tight and then you’ll have tied your knotless knot which forms the major part of many of today’s rigs.

Our next job is to take a small micro rig ring and place it over the tag end of line left hanging down the hook shank.

This section of line then needs to be also pushed through the back of the hook eye.

Now using a lighter, gently blob the tag of line to stop it pulling back through the eye of the hook.

If you’ve done this correctly then you should be left with a nice little D at the back of the hook shank.

Now, this is a little fiddly but place a small size 11/12 ring swivel onto the main section of fluorocarbon. This needs to be tied to the line using a blood knot of 5-6 turns.

Make sure that you wet the knot thoroughly with saliva as fluorocarbon will be damaged badly if it is not moist when pulled tight into a knot. The length you choose to tie this swivel on will be the depth you choose to fish the maggots at.

The principal behind this is that the small swivel will act as a hinge in the rig, allowing freedom of movement by the bait and also suitably counter balancing the buoyancy of our pop up baits too.

Right, our final rig part entails another section of the Fluorocarbon material. Cut away a section around 10-12 inches in length. Again this needs to be tied onto the swivel with the use of a blood knot.

At the other end of the almost complete rig we tie another ring swivel of size 8. This time I use an overhand or Loop knot which allows good freedom of movement in the rig.

Ok, so our rigs looking pretty tasty. We need to now look at our bait attachment. Using a section of dental floss, around 8-10 inches in length. Tie this onto the micro rig ring on the back of the D rig.

You can use any old knot for this attachment. Now with the two sections of floss left hanging from the micro ring we start to get things into shape.

Get yourself a small sewing needle and thread one section of the floss through the eye of the needle. With the needle end start to insert it through the ‘eyed’ end of each maggot gently teasing them onto the needle without causing them to ‘pop’!

Thread each of the maggots one by one down onto the floss. After you have sewn on around 4-5 maggots you’ll need to add a buoyant plastic maggot or two.

Restart the process of threading the real maggots again and after 5-6 of these add another couple of plastic one’s. I do this around 4-5 times. I like to add a few chopped worms to this as well.

I chop the worms up using a set of three tier worm scissors which makes quick work of a bunch of worms.

You can test the buoyancy of the baits in the margins of the water or in a bucket……I try to match it up so that the small hinge swivel is just enough weight to make the bait drop down in the water before sitting proud of the lake bed by the length of the hinged section.

Once your happy with the neutrality of the buoyancy then you can simply pull the two floss sections together and tie them in a knot.

This will in turn pull all the maggots and chopped worms into one tidy ball of bait.

If you find that the whole setup is just not buoyant enough then you’ll need to add a small section of buoyant foam to the floss.

I like to add this about half way through the threading process.

Now we have our rig ready to go, it’s just a case of casting it out and catching a few fish!

It’s obviously better to fish this method over some free offerings too though….I opt to either PVA bag these up or to spod the maggots and chopped worms out to the chosen spot.

As you can see in the pictures opposite….the baits look fantastic sitting in the water just off the deck of the lake and the colour and size of the baits look perfect for a bite!

So, what are you waiting for????? Get out there and dig some worms, get a few pints of mixed maggots in your bait box and go and haul some winter lumps!

Tight Lines

Keith