Posted by Keith on March 8, 2010 under Help and Tips, Sea Fishing | 
by Derek Townsend
Obsolete Ideology!
Historically, there has always been a culture of powerful rods, high test strength lines and heavy density leads associated with sea fishing from the shore in south east Wales. The combination of the extensive tidal range, strong currents and the shallow, shelving nature of the sea bed in the Bristol Channel, was responsible for the mindset that sponsored the use of extreme fishing tackle as the only way, if not to tame these elements, then certainly to make fishing a practical proposition along the south east coast of Wales.
This was the reality before the revolutionary advances in rods, reels and line technology circa the 70’s and onwards, presented the sea angler with both the tools and the opportunity to escape from the restraints of this obsolete ideology.
Long Distance Casting – A Blessing or a Curse?
The current “long distance casting” epidemic has done little to curb this phenomenon or stimulate an awareness that there are alternative approaches waiting for those who wish to add real enjoyment to their sea fishing. It is a myth that by learning a more effective casting technique and using it at EVERY visit to the shoreline, this alone will automatically guarantee improved catches in both quality and quantity of all species.
In fact, this practice can be counter productive, often putting the bait into barren ground beyond the habitat of some of the desired prey species, such as bass for example, or even rays, that at some marks from the shore, can lay in wait in the trench, within easy casting range at low water of a big spring tide. Winter cod fishing was an example where having the ability to cast a bait a considerable distance, could pay off handsomely at SOME locations (like Dungeness), but alternatively, there were local marks where good sport with codling of 6, 7, 8-ish lbs, or Thornback/ Small Eyed Rays circa 8 lbs., could be enjoyed using 11 lb. breaking strain (monofilament) line, 2 ounce (no grip) leads and my Bones Bass Rod Mk. 3, close inshore in rough ground, a la bass fishing.
When the novelty begins to wear off, realisation will dawn that LDC is not the all encompassing panacea for lack of success. Ultimately, nothing will replace knowledge, skill and an intelligent, rational use of ALL the techniques available to the sea angler, WHEN and WHERE experience demands.
The fish in the above photographs were all hooked inside a casting distance of circa 30 yards (90 feet) maximum, in rough ground, as were approximately 70% of all the prey fish (mainly bass but rays, cod and the occasional smoothound) caught by my sons and I in any one year. Accurate, as against distance, casting plus the correct bait was the key.
Having said all that, I would not hesitate to encourage every sea angler who takes a rod to water, to learn one of the modern casting techniques, such as the Pendulum style, from a competent, experienced and proficient practitioner.
The Good, the Bad and the downright Dangerous.
One thing for sure, Long Distance Casting in south east Wales is here to stay and its popularity is readily visible along the coast, be it of varying degrees of competence, ranging from the good, the bad and the downright dangerous. There is little doubt that the distances being achieved, together with the aspirations to do better, are down to the improved design of the blanks and the accelerated use of modern materials such as Carbon Fibre, rather than any revolutionary development of the basic technique which has its roots well into the past.
It is debatable whether the skilled practitioners of today would have faired any better than their counterparts some 30 to 35 years ago, had it not been for these technological advances in blank/rod design and construction. This discussion relates to the use of LDC as an important tool in the armoury of sea fishing, separate from Tournament Casting.
Acceptance of short comings and a desire to learn.
In the 21st Century, the opportunity to learn a modern casting style in this region either through formal, organized seminars, or via individual tuition, is widespread and any would be students are spoilt for choice.
This was not the case back in the 1970’s! Aspirations then, using the standard beach casters (average length= 12 feet) of the day, were much less than would be acceptable today, with the achievement of 150 yards (137 metres) to 175 yards (160 metres), “lead only, 5 ounces, over grass”, being considered miraculous. At that time, “blank/rod” technology was in its infancy and the average ability using the “up and over” style with the available materials (rod, reel and line) would result in a measured distance of 65 yards (59 metres) to a maximum of 85 yards (78 metres).
With initial instruction in the pendulum style, this distance could be improved, on average, to 100 yards (92 metres) up to 130 yards (119 metres), with the best students reaching 150 yards (137 metres) plus. Translate these performances onto the beach plus the vagaries of bait, wind, and weather and the reality was that the lead would, probably, enter the sea at around (a) 55 yards (50 metres) to 75 yards (69 metres) before instruction and (b) after instruction, possibly 85 yards (78 metres) to 110 yards (101 metres). These statistics, compared with the current distances being achieved, illustrate just how much influence technology has had on the potential performances of ordinary sea anglers over a period of a 1/3rd of a century.
“How does your casting measure up?”
On a historical note, I am quoting an edited version of an article titled “How does your casting measure up?” which I wrote and had published in the February, 1977 issue of ANGLING magazine, (Byblos Productions Ltd.) to give the reader an authentic feel for the period, and to provide a yardstick against which later generations can measure the improvements in distance attributable to the advanced technology.
(All distances quoted are for the popular lead density of the time of 5 ounces and using standard, every day beach casters of the popular assembled length of circa 12 feet)
The arrival of each new cod season is inevitably accompanied by a plethora of articles in angling periodicals, all emphasising the importance of developing a style and a capability to cast lead and bait more than 100 yards (91 metres) as a starter to any measure of success that may be achieved with this species. Of course, not all cod fishing involves the use of this ability, and indeed, the value of Long Distance Casting is not restricted to cod alone, although it was the initial source of inspiration to those early pioneers of the technique.
Despite the abundance of these articles expounding the virtues of this and that casting style, many sea anglers remain apathetic, although I suspect that in most breasts lurks a wistful desire to equal the ability of the Darkins, Darlings and others of this world. I am convinced, through my own experiences, that many sea anglers will only be inspired by actually seeing what a proficient L.D. Caster can achieve with the everyday tools of sea angling, be it on the tournament field, on the beach during a fishing session when all the vagaries of wind, weather and terrain are in play, a situation with which the less accomplished angler can relate.
Assuming that it was possible to accurately quantify all the sea anglers who cast from the shore, I wonder what the outcome would be if it was possible to calculate the percentage ratio of the following criteria to mass? How many anglers, using their standard “ beach casting” outfits, can cast a lead alone (a) over 200 yards (182 metres) (b) over 175 yards (160 metres) (c) over 150 yards (137 metres) (d) over 125 yards (114 metres) (e) over 100 yards (91 metres) and (f) over 75 yards (69 metres)? Most of us express our casting distances in the light of our achievements with lead only, thereby ignoring the natural limitations imposed by paternoster rigs, bait etc, which is why the above question was posed. The results of this theoretical survey would be pure speculation, although I suspect that the biggest percentage would be attributed to category (f), followed by a significantly reduced percentage for category (e), with the scale tapering off dramatically from category (d) through to (a).
Once again, recalling my own past experiences, it seemed natural at the time to draw the conclusion that, despite the absence of any reliable yardsticks against which to make a comparison, my achieved distances must be exceeding the hundred yard (91 metres) mark, and it wasn’t until the opportunity presented itself via a club organised casting tourney, that the truth was revealed. At the time, I was getting nowhere near the hundred yard (91 metres) post…more like 80 yards (73 metres) plus, lead only. By the way, I wasn’t the only one whose ego took a substantial knock that day!
Far from being unique, it would seem that this capacity to over assess distances is an angler’s prerogative, illustrating a deep-rooted complex which is associated with the inability to cast at least 100 yards (91 metres)…we all have to start somewhere!
Returning to the articles referred to earlier, if there is any criticism to be levelled at their content, then I feel that it must be directed at the emphasis placed on distances in excess of 150 yards (137 metres),lead only, the impression being that this is the norm. Failure to reach this standard nurtures an inferiority complex amongst those who cannot achieve it, hence the “Hundred Yard Syndrome”. I think it is reasonable to suggest that distances of at least 135 yards (123 metres), lead only over grass, will be achieved by those who have a natural ability, or have developed a fluent style through dedication or opportunity to practice for long hours…a luxury of the minority rather than the majority.
There is a need for some targets to which an aspiring novice caster can relate, but taking into consideration the wide spectrum of abilities and restricted time available for practice, I am sure the continual references to distances of 150, 160, 170 up to 200 yards, lead only, is the point where many lose interest who may have taken up the challenge if less awesome yardsticks punctuated these otherwise instructive articles.”
Just a reminder that this edited article was written and published in early 1977 and clearly demonstrates an apparent lack of enthusiasm for Long Distance casting in south east Wales, mainly due to the fact that accomplished L.D. Casters, “role models”, were thin on the ground in the region to the point of virtually being non existent. The distances in the piece are a true reflection of what was being achieved by the sea angler of average ability using the standard beach casting equipment available at this period.
ANGLING magazine, L.D.C. “Teach Ins.”
In the early 1970’s, ANGLING magazine organised a series of “teach ins” on the east coast of England, which presented the opportunity to witness L.D.C. performed by accomplished practitioners, and offered a unique opportunity for individual instruction in a more advanced casting style. Having benefited from one of the early “teach ins”, I was only too pleased to pass on the lessons learnt, and accepted invitations to demonstrate the rudiments of the pendulum style, impressing upon my hosts that I was not in the “super caster” league.
Casting Instruction and Demonstrations.
One to one instruction.
The average instruction session lasted about three hours, with initial casts using the old “up and over” style, ranging from 65 yards (59 metres) to 85 yards (78 meters), distances that reflected the physique and strength of each individual.
The end result, after a morning’s instruction, was a minimum improvement of, around, plus 35 yards (32 metres), with a fair proportion of the students consistently casting well over 150 yards (137 metres), lead only.
These distances may be small beer when compared to the achievements of today’s casters, but credit must be given to those who were prepared to face up to their limitations over a measured track, as the first step on the road to significant improvements.
Assessing distances cast over sea water by guesswork, or “pacing it out” over grass/ beach, has been proved beyond question, to have no credibility when put to the tape measure.
Derek demonstrates a cast over the measured court.
- Preparing for Instruction and a Demonstration of the pendulum style of casting.
Buy the book ‘ Bass Fishing from the shore in South East Wales and more by Derek Townsend’
Tags: bass, bass fishing from the shore, Casting, casting demonstrations, casting instruction, cod, derek townsend, Distance casting, leads, long distance, rays
Posted by Keith on March 7, 2010 under Carp and Coarse Fishing, Help and Tips, Sea Fishing |
Well, it’s started to warm up a bit by day at last….albeit another bunch of cold nights has plagued us again this week.
Unfortunately this put the stoppers on a trip to one of my syndicate waters in Reading this week.
The lake being all bar totally frozen again.
The start of a cold winters night!
With this snap of cold weather being with us I thought that I’d show you one of the rigs which has caught me an awful amount of big carp through the last few winters, when all but a few anglers have caught carp.
My chosen venue for winter always has to have a decent stock of carp to target. Tie this up to shallow’ish water and time on the bank and you have the recipe for good results when most waters have shut up shop.
The rig needs to be simple, invisible and of course, highly effective. The same needs to be said for the bait…..it needs to be highly visible, simple and of course again, attractive!
The baits of which I talk of some of you may laugh at…it is of course the humble maggot and our best friend the garden worm. These little wrigglers are just what the doctor ordered for a run of fish this time of year.
These baits couldn’t be easier to use and more readily available….obviously the worm from your garden and the maggots from the shop.
A 26lb 14oz common taken in February of this year on 6lb hook length!
I really like a mixture of colors of maggots, red and white minimum really. Tackle for this sort of fishing needs to be gauged to the size of fish you are hoping to catch and of course the venue itself.
The syndicate water i’m currently on in Devon has almost no underwater snags to worry about which means I can get away with very minimal tackle. This of course helps no end in making the terminal tackle invisible. This allows me to step my lines and hook lengths right down to 6lb.
Some of you may now be gasping at the thought of using 6lb line for big carp, but believe me that if you fish with a soft rod, tie good strong knots and play your fish sensibly then there is absolutely no reason why you too can’t catch big fish on light tackle too.
Winter nights can be hard times....
In my old match fishing days down the south of England, we thought nothing of going down to size 22 hooks and 1lb hook lengths for silvers and even catching odd small carp like this too. The reason for fining down the tackle is obvious in that it makes the whole set up less visible in the usually clear water we have around during the colder months of the year.
I’m not saying you should be casting split shot out for weights and size 22 hooks for double figure carp, but the use of 6lb fluorocarbon rig material and size 12 hooks will certainly get you a heck of a lot more bites than using 20lb material and size 4’s!
The humble maggot
You need to start thinking about how the fish react during the colder months of the year.
Many professors of fish science etc will tell you that the species Cyprinus Carpio (Carp) will not feed at water temperatures below 4 deg C….
I wouldn’t say this is a particularly hard and fast rule due to the fact that this year alone I have caught more than 20 fish from water temperatures down to as low as 2.4 deg C.
The maggot clip
Choosing the right fishery is obviously the key point here. It’s no good trying to target a water of 20 feet deep and only a few fish to boot. The main reason being that waters like this will take much longer to warm up as opposed to one of just a few feet deep.
So, we’ve talked a little about the choice of water and our bait etc. Now we need to have a way to present these excellent baits to the fish. There are of course many different ways in which to do this including the use of ‘maggot clips’ which are available
from many of the major tackle brands. I like these clips for their ease of use and simplicity, but I have a preferred method which gives as far as I am concerned a far better presentation.
The knotless knot
You will no doubt have come across this little gem of a method with in the press at some time or another in the past. It amazes me though how few people use it and just how many snub the idea of using maggots and worms for carp as ridiculous!
My principal rig consists of using fluorocarbon in minimal breaking strains as I said earlier in the text.
If I can get away with going down to 6lb breaking strain then the rig will be almost totally invisible withing the depths of the water….even in almost crystal clear water!
I like to team this up to a small hook of 10 or 12.
Forming the knotless knot
To start this rig we need to first cut off a section of fluorocarbon around 10 inches in length.
Now taking our hook, push the line from the point side through to the back of the shank. This is really important because if it goes through the wrong way your rig won’t work properly.
Forming the D section
Now start to twist the line around the shank neatly, around 6-8 turns will suffice. Pinch the twist and hook between your fingers and with the other hand push the line back through the hook eye in the reverse manner to previously.
Pull this up tight and then you’ll have tied your knotless knot which forms the major part of many of today’s rigs.
Our next job is to take a small micro rig ring and place it over the tag end of line left hanging down the hook shank.
This section of line then needs to be also pushed through the back of the hook eye.
Using a lighter to blob tag the end of the D section
Now using a lighter, gently blob the tag of line to stop it pulling back through the eye of the hook.
If you’ve done this correctly then you should be left with a nice little D at the back of the hook shank.
The finished D-rig
Now, this is a little fiddly but place a small size 11/12 ring swivel onto the main section of fluorocarbon. This needs to be tied to the line using a blood knot of 5-6 turns.
Make sure that you wet the knot thoroughly with saliva as fluorocarbon will be damaged badly if it is not moist when pulled tight into a knot. The length you choose to tie this swivel on will be the depth you choose to fish the maggots at.
Use a blood knot to tie on the micro ring swivel
The principal behind this is that the small swivel will act as a hinge in the rig, allowing freedom of movement by the bait and also suitably counter balancing the buoyancy of our pop up baits too.
Right, our final rig part entails another section of the Fluorocarbon material. Cut away a section around 10-12 inches in length. Again this needs to be tied onto the swivel with the use of a blood knot.
Tie on a size 8 ring swivel to the end of the rig
At the other end of the almost complete rig we tie another ring swivel of size 8. This time I use an overhand or Loop knot which allows good freedom of movement in the rig.
Ok, so our rigs looking pretty tasty. We need to now look at our bait attachment. Using a section of dental floss, around 8-10 inches in length. Tie this onto the micro rig ring on the back of the D rig.
Thread on real and buoyant rubber maggots using a sewing needle
You can use any old knot for this attachment. Now with the two sections of floss left hanging from the micro ring we start to get things into shape.
Get yourself a small sewing needle and thread one section of the floss through the eye of the needle. With the needle end start to insert it through the ‘eyed’ end of each maggot gently teasing them onto the needle without causing them to ‘pop’!
Thread each of the maggots one by one down onto the floss. After you have sewn on around 4-5 maggots you’ll need to add a buoyant plastic maggot or two.
Restart the process of threading the real maggots again and after 5-6 of these add another couple of plastic one’s. I do this around 4-5 times. I like to add a few chopped worms to this as well.
Worm Scissors
I chop the worms up using a set of three tier worm scissors which makes quick work of a bunch of worms.
You can test the buoyancy of the baits in the margins of the water or in a bucket……I try to match it up so that the small hinge swivel is just enough weight to make the bait drop down in the water before sitting proud of the lake bed by the length of the hinged section.
Chopped worms...yummy!
Once your happy with the neutrality of the buoyancy then you can simply pull the two floss sections together and tie them in a knot.
This will in turn pull all the maggots and chopped worms into one tidy ball of bait.
If you find that the whole setup is just not buoyant enough then you’ll need to add a small section of buoyant foam to the floss.
Ready to cast
I like to add this about half way through the threading process.
Now we have our rig ready to go, it’s just a case of casting it out and catching a few fish!
It’s obviously better to fish this method over some free offerings too though….I opt to either PVA bag these up or to spod the maggots and chopped worms out to the chosen spot.
Perfection!
As you can see in the pictures opposite….the baits look fantastic sitting in the water just off the deck of the lake and the colour and size of the baits look perfect for a bite!
So, what are you waiting for????? Get out there and dig some worms, get a few pints of mixed maggots in your bait box and go and haul some winter lumps!
Tight Lines
Keith
Posted by keens on February 8, 2010 under Sea Fishing |
Ray’s a Laff!! by Derek Townsend.
Job Satisfaction!
The experimenting and hard fishing of the seventies confirmed for me that (common sense) light tackle together with “species specialisation” was the best way to achieve improved “job” satisfaction, more consistent catch results and the management of the vagaries of the upper reaches of the Bristol Channel, along the south east coast of Wales. The idea was to single out the individual prey species (Ray’s, Bass and Cod) that appealed to me, taking every practical step necessary to ensure that only the species of the day was caught by using the correct technique, gear, bait, in the known habitat, at the precise time and state of a particular volume (height) of tide during the most appropriate weather and sea conditions. The combination of knowledge and the tide table predictions was invaluable when adopting the “species specialisation” approach, providing the means by which forward planning became a viable option. The sacrifice was to restrict fishing for the chosen species to only those occasions when all the factors in the equation came together, the reward was the luxury of a level of consistency on a scale rarely achieved with random fishing.
A Ray of Hope!!
Although the ray’s did not inspire a sufficient level of enthusiasm to justify making them an all year target, never the less they were a welcome introduction to the new season after the long, winter lull from late January. As long as the criteria were met on the day, making the effort could provide the long overdue opportunity to enjoy some fresh air and exercise. Regular as clockwork, every February or March, it was habitual to sit down with a copy of the new tide table book, a calculator and some coloured pens, in readiness to plan my programme of ray and bass fishing for the coming season.
(Please Note: The Tide Table Predictions are for the King’s Dock Sill, Swansea. The Tide Table books are available from Keens Tackle and Guns, Aberkenfig, at £1.00 per book, p& p £0.70p if applicable)
E-mail address: sales@keenstackleandguns.co.uk
Highlights!
The first job was to highlight ALL those tide volume (height) predictions in the tide table book from April to the end of May inclusive, that experience over many seasons had proved to be the most productive for the rays, within this two month period. The high water times of the selected tide heights were extended to produce the approximate time of low water, by adding in one hour for British Summer Time plus six hours and ten minutes to calculate the approximate time of low water. At the mark I visited every year for ray fishing from April to May inclusive, the factor that governed the choice of tide height was the need to reach a shallow trench offshore where the rays rested before coming inshore with the new flood. Low water of a spring tide of 39 feet (height) was the minimum datum from which my casting ability would allow me to reach and deposit a narrow strip of squid accurately into the all important trench. Having to rely on a reluctant sun to warm the inshore waters meant the selected tides fell during the hours of daylight.
Demonstration of Technique.
I have taken the actual predictions for April and May 2010, carried out the necessary calculations, displaying the results as they are written up in my tide table book.
April 2010 May 2010
Time Height Time Height
Date Day HW LW (ft) Date Day HW LW (ft.)
1 Thu 08.39 14.49* 42.1 1 Sat 08.53 15.03* 39.5
2 Fri 09.17 15.27* 41.1
3 Sat 09.52 16.02* 39.4 15 Sat 07.56 14.06* 39.1
15 Thu 07.44 13.54* 39.3 16 Sun 08.35 14.45* 39.1
16 Fri 08.18 14.28* 39.4
17 Sat 08.50 15.00* 39.1
* Denotes optimum Low water time.
27 Tue 06.04 12.14* 40.1 ( One hour of ebb to low water,
28 Wed 06.51 13.01* 40.7 Three hours of new flood.)
29 Thu 07.34 13.44* 40.8
30 Fri 08.15 14.25* 40.4
Optimum Tides and Low Water Times.
These are the optimum tides and low water times that are predicted to occur during the months of April and May 2010 for the south east coast of Wales, that past experience has shown would provide the best opportunity to reach the trench and put the squid strip within the province of the rays. Add to this the forecasted weather and sea conditions closer to the selected day, as per the World 5 day weather service courtesy of the BBC’s web site. This is all the information needed to make a decision. Although this strategy was successful at one particular mark, there is absolutely no reason why it should not apply to any of the shallow shelving stretches of sandy beach along the south east Wales coast. The peak period of activity was the last hour of the ebb to low water, and three hours of the new flood. A monopod as against a tripod rod rest, was always preferred because the rod could be presented vertically, with the line well clear of the active water for a much greater distance out to sea, and the initial slack line bite, kick of the rod tip and the modest run inshore was much more dramatic, positive and visible. Never found any need for fancy bait concoctions, a simple strip of squid cut from the mantle, folded over the hook shank twice and secured with elastic thread always seemed to do the trick. (Fresh squid strip, ¾ inch wide x 6 inches long, cut to a point). Beach fishing usually goes hand in hand with long walks so it might be prudent to leave the “luggage” secure in the car boot, taking only the absolute minimum of bits and pieces in a small, practical shoulder bag to lighten the load.
Tackle Specification: Ray Safaris
The gear (rod, reel, rig and Mustad hook) listed in the following chart, is what I used on those early ray “safaris”, however, the lines are what I would use today.
Prey Species: Rays (Thornback and Small Eyed)
Venue Description: long expanse of shallow shelving sandy beach.
(for example: Monk Nash, Dunraven Bay, Ogmore Sands, Rest Bay, Kenfig Sands
Margam Sands (Morfa Beach), Aberavon Sands)
Target……Shallow trench estimated 100/120 yards offshore from low water line of 39 ft datum.
Rod……….12 foot, two piece beach caster, self built on the Zziplex 2000 Sport Carbon Fibre Blank.
Reel………Abu 6500c (1975) multiplying, fitted with a handle from an Abu 7000.
Line………14 lbs.bs. (.310 mm diam) Sakuma Lite Crystal.
Leader……50 lbs.bs. (.600 mm diam) Sufix Zippy.
Weight……5 ounce Breakaway Lead.
Rig……….Single hook, Running Paternoster (constructed from 50 lbs. bs. Sufix Zippy).
Hook……..Mustad 79510, 4/0, well sharpened, tied to 10 lbs.bs. Berkley Iron Silk (12 inch long) snood.
Rod Rest…36 inch aluminium monopod, self made, pushed into sand to hold rod vertically.
Bait………Narrow (3/4 ins. wide by 6 ins. long, cut to a point) squid strip. Thread strip over hook twice
so that a minimum of 2/3rds. is trailing from the hook. Secure squid to hook with elastic thread.
Casting…..Pendulum Casting style.
State of the Tide….One hour of the ebb to low water, three hours of the new flood.
Tidal Volume (height)…Minimum height of 39.0 feet. (Based on predictions for the Kings Dock Sill, Swansea)
Sea Conditions…Calm, from flat to light surf.
Weather Conditions…No wind to light breeze (from south to west). Dry with a benevolent Spring sun, strong enough to warm the shallow, inshore waters.
Ray Safaris and a Tug of War !!
At first glance, the tackle specification selected for ray fishing would probably not comply with the initial “light tackle” expectations of the reader. The rays are not renowned for their robust “fighting” behaviour on the hook, so bringing the fish to the anglers’ feet on the beach, was usually an extended, uneventful, strenuous pull. Common sense dictates the suggested line test strength of 14 lb.(.310 mm diam) Sakuma Lite Crystal on the basis of the “tug of war” aspect, although 10 lbs. bs. Berkeley Iron Silk also at .310 mm diameter might add a touch of adventure to the proceedings. On a good day, it was not unusual to land 2 to 3 rays during the early part of the fresh flood, ranging between 4 to 10 lbs.
Unless you are partial to eating a “wing or two”, please carefully unhook the fish, handle it with care, take the necessary photographs and return it to “fight” another day. Thank you, D.T.
Buy the book ‘ Bass Fishing from the shore in South East Wales and more by Derek Townsend’
Click Here for Details
Posted by Keith on February 6, 2010 under Carp and Coarse Fishing, Catch Reports |
Stenhill Carp Syndicate,
Nr,Collumpton, Devon.
5th February 2010.
Hi all.
Well this is my first report for 2010 and at last I’ve had the opportunity like many of you to get back out on the bank side. Many reasons for not getting out which include the obvious horrendous weather which as blighted the UK for the best part of a month and a half.
We personally had some of the heaviest snow we have seen in Wales since moving there some 6 years ago. The children obviously enjoyed themselves hugely and the schools remained closed for two weeks. Thus giving the local kids a four week Christmas holiday! Poor parents! lol
Winter has always been one of my favourite fishing periods in the year. The banks are quieter, the fish are in their finest dark conditions and if your brave enough to really stick it out, catching fish during winter conditions gives you the most incredible feeling of accomplishment.
I have already started 2010 with a good spell of luck in the form of a new Syndicate ticket. The venue in question is the feature of my first catch report for this year. At just around an acre and a half, it’s not the biggest and most complicated water I have fished.
Albeit a very good level of stock to mid thirties and a big stock of twenties, it still requires a level of skill to catch these somewhat wary carp. The water is shallow, around 4ft maximum, with two small islands, a short horseshoe channel section and plenty of tree and reed growth to target the many very attractive specimens held in there.
I first went to the venue early last week for an informal meeting with land, fishery owner and extremely keen carper himself, Brian Cox….. Brian is a real gem, proper character, and all out genuine gentleman. The welcome was second to none and I truly hope we will over time become very good friends. The venue itself is set in some of the most glorious Devonshire countryside and the quiet hamlet of Stenhill.
Extremely good security, solid standing car park, running water, toilets and of course top quality fishing make this water one to certainly have a ticket for…..hence I jumped up and down when I received one of only 25 tickets issued per year for this very exclusive opportunity.
So, the day came on Monday of this week. My first chance to get back out on the bank side and of course my first chance to wet a line at the new water. I arrived mid morning to a lake covered almost totally with a thick layer of ice…..not what you want to see after 2 hours driving on the motorway!
Well, Brian was very helpful by clearing a couple of small areas for me to get a line into and gave me a few guidelines on the rules and of course the all important hotspots! I’m not saying that I need help to locate these spots, but of course every little bit of help edges you closer to bagging the all important first fish from a new water.
I set up on a nice grass section of bank next to a small island channel……the only clear patch on the lake. It just so happened that a few nice fish were clearly visible under an overhanging bush. I decided to target this area only for the first night. I managed to use the Microcat to position a bait just under the overhanging bush, which Brian assured me was totally clear underneath.
This was baited with a Mainline Milky Toffee 14mm white pop up on a split shot multi rig and size 8 Korda Choddy hook to 20lb Hybrid. Lead was a 2oz inline semi fixed set up to 2 feet of tungsten tubing.
It wasn’t long into the session before my first take. In fact the rod had only been in the water some 40 minutes or so before it tore of. The fight was a brief affair and a little one sided as the fish had little opportunity to head anywhere other than straight into the waiting net.
It was all over before the fish knew it was even hooked! Feeling totally relieved to have banked one already, I felt sure that there was others still under the bush waiting to be caught. I weighed the fish, a very pretty white Koi Carp of 13lb 10oz. Brian runs a strict ruling of using only onsite nets, weigh slings and unhooking mats….this is to obviously ensure that no disease is past onto these stunning fish.
Around 10pm on Monday night the lake was already struggling to stay away from being completely iced over as temperatures again dropped to well below zero for a consecutive night in a row. I managed to keep the ice away from my little spot and around 10.15pm I had another nice run from the bush rod. This fish fought a bit harder and I was happy to bank a nice mirror of 14lb 2oz.
By early morning the wind had swung around to the West and rain started to come in. This brought the air temperature up and started to melt the ice on the lake. This had a somewhat detrimental effect in that the ice obviously melted into the lake and dropped the water temperature by a further degree.
Doesn’t sound a lot but the difference between 3-4°c in angling for carp can mean the difference between catching and a total blank! Subsequently the day passed by with no action whatsoever. My next run came around 5pm on Tuesday and from around the still partially un-iced area near the island bush.
A small common soon breached the rim of the net and took the dial around to 11lb 6oz. The night pass by with no activity and I was left feeling a little disassembled by day break!
I felt my chances of bagging yet more fish from the small bush were pretty slim now. There was certainly very little activity around and under the bush and no fish were now visible. I decided a move to the open, deeper water section was the order of the day.
After breakfast on Wednesday I checked the water temperature and was chuffed to see it had at last risen to 5.1°C in the margins. I decided to position a rod to my left down the margin to a lovely set of tree roots which invades the water by some 2 feet. The other two rods were placed out into open water and some nice choddy spots.
I thought my luck was up by midnight as I’d had a few liners but no takes. I made the choice to recast all three rods around 2am and after a brief shower of rain, everything was ready to go again.
3am and the RH rod ripped off. A good scrap ensued and a few minutes later I was self taking pics of a nice 17lb 10oz Common.
I placed the rod back out and around 6.15am she again tore off at a rate of knots. A very pretty deep and dark mirror graced the net and swung the Reubens around to 18lb 15oz. A great way to end a cracking winter session.
So, it just goes to show that even in the hardest of weather conditions you can still catch Carp!
Get out there and bag a winter whopper! I’m off to Brasenose 1 next week for 3 nights with site regulars and good pals Jess(The Jester) Collins and Keith (Travelling Hawk) Paris.
Tight lines boys and girls!
Keith
x
Posted by Keith on January 31, 2010 under Carp and Coarse Fishing, Help and Tips |
Feature Finding
As I said earlier on in the Blog….I would at some point cover aspects of feature finding and it’s obvious benefits. I’m hoping when the weather breaks a little to put together a video on the topic, but for now here’s a few pointers on the subject.
Feature finding is absolutely crucial to any anglers armoury of skills.
With this ability you will be able to locate individual features and take a look at the bottom of the venue without taking a swim!
This is my marker set up. As you can see there is a large stainless ring which allows the line to move freely through.
This is connected to a swivel and then the lead. In between is a cork ball which helps to keep the whole thing above any silt or weed, this can be made longer to cope with heavy weed or silt.
We then have another cork ball which acts as a buffer and bouyancy aid for the above float.
Below are some crude drawings I have done which should help to make this method clear and obvious to its benefits.
This as far as I am concerned about the best way to get an idea of the swim in front of you.
Start with a cast to one side...slowly pull back and then wind. Then start the process again around 180 degrees of the swim.
Start with a cast to the left of your swim. Use common sense and dont cast into the next guys swim though! Follow up the cast by feeling the lead down to the bottom, you should feel it touch the bottom.This is done by touching your finger onto the reel spool as the lead is about to hit the water and gently lifting the rod on a tight line.
If it hits softly it could be silt or weed. If it hits with a bump its probably on gravel. The next step will tell you exactly. First pay line out a foot at a time till you see the float. Count the pay outs and you’ll get the depth in that spot. Once done start retrieving line till you conect with the lead. Now gently at right angles to the lead pull back the lead level to the water and bank.
You should now clearly feel the make up of the bottom. Continue doing this process from left to right with around a 2-3m difference each time. This should give you an idea of any underwater differences.
Here you can see that the lead and marker float has landed in weed.
The rod will pull round gently and possibly be difficult to move depending on the density of the weed.
If the weed is light it will feel very similar to silt where the lead comes back okay back is much harder to retrieve than on clear bottom.
In most cases at the end of the retrieve the rig will have some weed on it. You can then see what your up against.
The only other time in which the tip will show this kind of gently pull round is when the lead is coming up a slope or bar. This will feel ‘free’ at the top of the slope though and not as difficult to retrieve.
Here we can see that the lead is struggling to come up a slope which may well be a plateau or bar.
These areas are typically well renowned feeding areas for carp. Presenting a bait on top of a bar or on either side of the drop off can result in good fishing. Especially if the wind is blowing onto one of these bars.
As above we spoke about the lead feeling harder to retrieve all of a sudden. This will obviously become less difficult the closer the lead becomes to the top of the bar. Beware though that these areas can harbour weeds, snags and sharp stones which can cut you off!
In this picture we can see the effect of the lead coming down a slope.
This time the rod will bounce back towards you quickly and feel ‘light’ to retrieve. Again after this its worth paying out line to gauge the difference in the depth.
This could be a great place for a bait.
Our final drawing covers the effect of gravel on the rod tip.
Here you can see that there is an obvious area of gravel which the lead will pass over.
The rod tip will show the effect of the gravel by bouncing around.
You will feel it spring back very easily and quickly with a tapping sensation coming through the rod. This is possibly the easiest of all the ‘feelings’ to locate.
This will most likely be a great area in which to place a bait as well.
It may well show up an area which has been recently cleaned by feeding fish.
Taken from Nuts about Carp
Tight Lines
Keith
Posted by Keith on January 29, 2010 under Carp and Coarse Fishing, Help and Tips |
The Cat-o-Copter Rig
Right, so we’ve reached the last in our series of running water rigs for Wels Catfish…..this week it’s the turn of a trusty favourite and very well used rig known as the Cat-o-Copter rig.
The cat-o-copter rig allows a live bait to be suspended well above a snag, weeds or just clear of the bottom for what ever reason.
This rig is very popular amongst big river anglers on venues such as the Rio Ebro in Spain.
You will need to fish this rig in a beach caster style format with the rod positioned in an upright position and placed into a very sturdy butt stand that is well anchored to the ground.
Position a Poly ball pop up onto the main line followed by a bead, heavy duty strong swivel and then another bead, Poly Ball and lastly one more bead.
Now tie on a strong swivel to the end of the mainline. To this you will need to attach a weak link from which to anchor the whole rig to the bottom with a heavy lead. I would use about 6lb line and you will need to vary the weight according to the strength of current.
My good friend Stuart Andrews with a plump Moggy taken on a Cat-o-copter rig
The principal behind this is that as soon as a cat picks up the suspended hook bait it can swim away and your weak link will snap, this leaves you in direct contact with the fish and no trailing lead to be concerned about!
The only other thing left to do with the rig is to tie on a good strong hooklength material and hook to the inline helicopter style swivel.
To stop the whole thing sliding up the line straight to the surface or to fix it at a specific depth you will need to tie a sliding stop knot above the whole rig.
Tight lines
Keith
Posted by Keith on January 22, 2010 under Carp and Coarse Fishing, Help and Tips |
Inline suspender Rig for running water
Ok, so far we have discussed a couple of rigs for use in a majority of still water situations for Wels Catfish…..This week I am going to discuss the use of an inline rig which will aid us in the presentation of a live bait in a running water situation.
Using a running lead loop and lead clip to the weight.
The inline setup will aid us in many ways especially in the way that it tends to avoid tangles associated with using previous rigs we have talked about.
As with the other rigs we have mentioned before, the weight should be positioned on the line first using a good quality free running lead link clip which makes as little resistance as possible.
This is highly important when fishing for Wels Catfish, as they have a good habit of dropping any bait that they feel the least bit of resistance from.
You’ll obviously need to gauge the size of weight required to hold bottom by the strength of the rivers flow. If there is a very strong river flow or you are fishing at long range using a boat to place the baits out in the water…then I would suggest the use of a rig otherwise known as the Cat’O'Copter rig. I will go over the tactics and tackle required for this rig next week.
Next up we need to use a buffer bead and follow this with a piece of soft silicone rubber that will gently push over the stiff dumbell tube.
Push the main line through the center of the dumbell stiff tube and out the otherside.
Now tie on an appropriate hook for the livebait. I would suggest a size 1-1/0 would be suitable for a 5-6oz roach bait, which should be lip hooked to ensure good life in the hookbait. Anything bigger will obviously require a much larger hook.
Finally pull the soft tubing over the end of the stiff dumbell. This all helps to stop tangles.
A nice Wels caught by using the inline set up.
As with other rigs, it is possible to again payout as much line as you like to cover a much larger area. This is very helpful in a river situation where by it’s possible that the fish may well be some considerable distance from the position you are fishing from and to.
Please be aware of the current your fishing in and the weight of fish you are likely to come across….It’s no good trying to catch 100lb + catfish in imense flow at 80 yards on standard carp fishing tackle. Your gear will certainly not be up to scratch. For this kind of angling your going to need one of the custom built rods now available for Catfish or even an uptiding style of rod with a good 4-5lb test curve and 9-10 foot in length.
Next week we’ll view another running water rig…..
Tight lines
Keith
Posted by Keith on January 16, 2010 under Carp and Coarse Fishing, Help and Tips |
Suspended worm/leech rig.
Right, to continue our series is another extremely effective part of our catfishing armory.
This rig allows the angler to suspend a bait of either worm or leeches at a varying depth off the bottom.
Much like the other suspender rigs used this requires the use of another dumbell pop up.
First off, place a running lead onto the main line with a good free running ring attached. Follow this up with our trusted friend the buffer bead.
Now push your main line through the center of the dumbell pop up tubing and out the other end.
I would then push on a section of silicone tubing just wide enough to go over the stiff tubing. Now tie on a good strong swivel.
A nice Wels taken on the Suspended Worm/Leech Rig
You can now pull the soft tubing down and partially over the swivel to lock the whole thing in place.
All that is now left to do is Tie on you chosen hook length material and a good strong hook. I would also use a small bait shield on the hook to stop the worms from wriggling off the shank and getting away!
After the cast you can pay out as much line as you like so that the whole set up is fishable at any depth right up to the surface if preferred.
A really usable and effective rig this……it’s caught me many catfish of all different sizes.
Next week we’ll discuss the use of live and dead baits in running water.
Tight Lines
Keith
Posted by keens on January 5, 2010 under Sea Fishing |
Two anglers persistance in the cold weather produced a monster cod to prove they still exist! Previous poor cod seasons have led to questions being asked. Is the water not cold enough? Are the cod numbers simply not what they used to be?
However, over the recent cold spell which have seen over-night temperatures hit -12 at certain shore marks around South and West Wales there have been some good early signs. Double figure cod pushing 18-20lb are being produced from private and charter boats running from Porthcawl to Newport.
Bitterly cold, but with low wind, John Roberts of Maesteg and his skipper friend Ray Evans took Rays private boat out into Camarthen Bay, West Wales.
Aboard the boat Sand Piper John decided to fish a 4″ strip of mackerel presented on a 2/0 Pulley Pennel rig into a drop off of 90ft. It payed off! What John originally thought was a ray of some kind became e
vident that it was not as it started to run, and its weight made it clear that whatever had taken the bait was a fish of some size.
After fighting the fish to the boats side a cod emerged, lip hooked of a staggering 25lb!
With our coldest months yet to come we hope this is a good sign!
Congratulations John!
Posted by Keith on January 4, 2010 under Carp and Coarse Fishing, Help and Tips |
Suspended Live bait rig/Dumbell rig
I’ve had numerous requests from people asking for some rig tips for catching Wels Catfish. Bearing this in mind I have put together a few rig tutorials with regards to this. I’ll publish these over the coming weeks and we’ll discuss their uses.
This rig has accounted for a massive amount of fish from our UK shores to much further afield.
It’s principal setup is very basic and extremely effective. Many people are under the assumption that the Wels is a bottom dweller and only feeds hard on the bottom…..this is a fallacy and nothing could be further from the truth.
This rig uses a small amount of items to achieve maximum catching effect. The Wels will readily take a live bait presented high up in the water, just below the surface in fact.
The suspended rig or Dumbell rig as it is also known is most effective in water of around 8-10 feet+.
A lead of 3-4 oz would be most suitable and placed onto the mainline in a free running format. Next we need to position a free running buffer bead onto the line. 
Next we need to pull the line through our dumbells silicone tubing center and now tie on a good strong swivel.
All that is left to do is tie on our hooklength material……I like to use a heavy monofilament such as amnesia as it is less prone to tangles as braid is.
Now tie on the hook. You will need to use an appropriate hook for the size of fish livebait that you are going to use. A size 1/0, 1 or 2 will be around the required size.
Place the live fish onto the hook via its top lip and then the rig is ready to cast.
Once cast to the appropriate area I then tighten the line until the weight can be felt and the dumbell is tight to the mainline in such a way that if you were to pull any more then the dumbell would disappear under the water.
You now put the rod in the rests and wait. You can pay out some more line if you wish…..this will help the hookbait to cover a larger area.
So, there you have it……our first rig ready for catching one of those elusive monster fish……more to follow in a weeks time.
Tight lines
Keith
